Over the years your mounts will take a lot of abuse. The more you race, drive, or just let the car sit in the driveway, the mounts will slowly loose their rigidity. A common complaint these days seems to be people experiancing a bit of shaking when accelerating/braking. Why is this? Well, part could be due to wapred rotors, part due to bad/broken drive shafts, but I've found the most common problem to be the Engine Mounts. As they tear, the engine can't shift it's weight correctly to the stabalizer, and in turn you obtain a bit of shaking out of it. If the front and the rear go bad, then you had better hope that your motor will only shake from left to right (More than half of the engine movement is from front to back). This will in turn also equate to stress on parts of the engine that don't to have stress. Probably the most stress taken part would be the Exhaust Manifold/Header. Ever heard of older cars starting to notice exhaust manifold/header cracks? Part of what helps to reduce this from ever happening was the invention of flex pipes. The basic rule of thumb needs to be, if the mounts aren't taking the abuse, then something else will; nothing lasts forever.
Now for some technical info on these marvles. First of all, they are soild poyurethane engine mounts made out of your stock mounts. "But my mounts are spilt in two parts!" Doesn't matter, that's what we mean by Poly Coating. Tom will Fill in the Gaps with liquid polyurethane, and when it hardens, you'll never know the mount was ever spilt or had any imperfectoins to begin with. Now the question will arise, "How can it be a poly mount if you still have rubber for the core; is this okay?" More than okay. Check out the products that Energy Suspension (ES) produces. Instead of needing your core, they provide inner locking mount inserts that are just put on around the mount; even if they are split. ES doesn't care if the mount has cracks, their inserts fit around them. One thing ES lacks in actuality is a solid mount, so it's not going to be as sturdy. I'm willing to bet that if you ask anyone that claims they have Polyurethane Engine Mounts if they aren't actually inserts, they will have to give in and say, "Well, yes, they are just inserts". One great thing about Polyurethane is that it compresses just once under load. Once it does, it'll harden like a rock. After 1 day of having a new set of mounts on your lude, these beauties will not only work better for you, they will also compress and stay in a locked position for the rest of their existance. Wanna know why the rubber mounts break? They compress and decompress all at the same time, and if you drive a lot, 100's of times in a day!
This about sums it all up for this great addition to any 3G Prelude. If you don't know who Tom Coleman is, you won't have to look far to see that I take pride in showing off his work on this site. He's produced several Turbo kits by now (pushing 10+ I believe of the T3's and he hit 4 - 5 T25's by this time last year). His extensive knowledge and research has done nothing more than help to push the 3G to the top as a main competitor in the world of performance. And as with his many other products, this man has dazzled us with yet another one; you never cease to amaze me Tom. My friends, his work is great, and I firmly believe that these solid polycoated engine mounts will be well worth your while to purchase and try out. The price for these has been opened at just $50 for a set of two; front and rear. The sides really don't need to be done as they take probably half the engine shock as the front/rear's do. I spoke with Tom the other day and mentioned that I was sure that even the common enthusiast wouldn't have just an extra set of Engine Mounts laying around and wanted to konw what to do about this problem. You, the driver can't go around driving with no mounts, and you probably can't afford to let the car sit on stands for a few days while the mounts are being completed. Here's the solution. Tom's come up with a core exchange program. He'll send you a set of poly mounts for your car for $150. Once he receives your old mounts, the extra $100 will be refunded to you as if it'd never been sent off to him in the first place. Any and all questions should be refered to Tom Coleman. As for the method of payment, I know he's more than willing to accept a MO, and I know he's got a Paypal account at Tom@Ludespeed.com being his account. Contact Tom before sending money via Paypal however so he knows who you are and what your needing first.
Ps. Tell Tom I sent you and that he needs to start writing his own articles. :)